Stretch Jersey Fabric for Dressmaking: A Practical Guide for Confident Sewing

What is stretch jersey fabric?

Stretch jersey fabric is a knit fabric, rather than a woven one. That means it’s made from loops of yarn knitted together, which is what gives it its natural stretch and softness.

Unlike woven dressmaking fabrics (like cotton lawn or denim), jersey doesn’t fray at the edges and it stretches as you move. This makes it ideal for garments that need to feel comfortable and flexible.

General tips when choosing stretch jersey fabric

One thing that can feel confusing when you first start sewing with knits is the terminology. The words jersey fabric, knitted fabric and stretch fabric often get used interchangeably, both here and across fabric shops and sewing resources online. Most of the time, people are referring to similar types of stretch knit fabric for dressmaking, but the small differences can matter depending on your project.

Stretch jersey fabric can be made from a wide variety of fibres, including cotton, viscose, modal, polyester, wool and bamboo. Very often, these are blended with a small percentage of elastane (also called spandex or Lycra) to improve stretch and recovery. That added stretch fibre is what helps your finished garment keep its shape and feel comfortable to wear.

You may also see jersey fabric described by its weight. Technically, this is measured in grams per square metre (GSM) which tells you how heavy or thick the fabric is. However, GSM numbers can be difficult to visualise and aren’t always provided. More commonly, you’ll see descriptions like lightweight jersey, medium-weight knit or heavy sweatshirting. These more practical terms are often more helpful when choosing fabric for a specific sewing pattern.

There are also more technical names you might come across, such as single jersey, interlock (double knit), ponte roma, sweatshirting and loopback jersey. These terms refer to different knit constructions and fabric structures, which affect stretch, stability and drape. I’ll go into the most common types in more detail below so you can confidently choose the right stretch jersey fabric for your dressmaking project.

I’ve tried to keep everything here relevant and approachable for the home dressmaker. There’s certainly more technical detail out there about knit fabric construction, but my aim is to give you a clear, practical understanding of stretch jersey fabric for dressmaking, so you can select it confidently and sew it into a handmade wardrobe you’ll love wearing.

How to work out the amount and type of stretch

One of the most important things to understand when choosing stretch jersey fabric for dressmaking is how it stretches, and by how much. Not all stretch knit fabrics behave in the same way, and this really does affect how your finished garment will fit.

Some jersey fabrics have a two-way stretch, meaning they stretch across the width of the fabric (from selvedge to selvedge). Others have a four-way stretch, which means they stretch both widthways and lengthways.

A simple way to remember this is to think about swimwear. A swimsuit needs to stretch around your body and along the length of it, so it’s made from four-way stretch fabric. For most everyday dressmaking projects like T-shirts and dresses, two-way stretch jersey fabric is often perfectly suitable, but it’s always worth checking your sewing pattern requirements.

Why Is Stretch Percentage Important?

Sewing patterns designed for stretch jersey fabric are usually drafted with negative ease. This means the finished garment is intentionally smaller than your body measurements so the stretch knit fabric can stretch and fit comfortably around you.

If your jersey fabric stretch percentage isn’t high enough, the garment may feel too tight, or you might not be able to get it on and off easily. Matching your fabric’s stretch to the pattern requirement is key to getting the fit just right.

Understanding stretch percentage

This is where it’s easy to get confused.

The stretch percentage of fabric refers to how much the fabric physically stretches, not the percentage of elastane (spandex or Lycra) listed in the fibre content. A fabric might only contain 5% elastane but still stretch significantly.

Most sewing patterns designed for stretch knit fabric will state a minimum stretch requirement, for example “fabric must have at least 40% stretch”. This ensures the garment fits properly and can be pulled on and off comfortably.

To calculate the jersey fabric stretch percentage, measure 10cm along the direction of greatest stretch. Gently stretch it (without distorting the fabric) and see how far it extends. If 10cm stretches to 14cm, that equals 40% stretch.

Using a printable stretch guide can make this much easier. I often recommend the free stretch percentage tool from Megan Nielsen, it’s a really helpful visual reference when matching stretch jersey fabric to sewing patterns.

Taking a few moments to check the type and percentage of stretch before you cut into your fabric can make all the difference to the fit and success of your finished garment.

How jersey fabrics are made

• They are created by the fibres looping together, rather than being woven in and out of each other. This also gives the fabric a stretchy quality as the loops have more give and stretch in them.
• Quite often they are knitted as a big tube on a machine, rather than from side to side like a woven fabric. This means that in order to get the fabric as one flat piece that you buy from a bolt or roll the machine will cut the tube. To stabilize this cut edge sometimes you will see what looks like a line of hard glue marks along the cut ‘selvedge’ edge (see below left).
• Single knit fabrics have a right and wrong side, the front being smooth and the reverse will have very fine bumpy stitches
• Double knit fabrics (which can also be known as interlock or ponte Roma) is made in a way that creates two layers of fabric joined together. It looks similar on each side and tends to be a thicker fabric.
• Loopback or French terry fabric is knitted in a way that creates loops on the reverse of the fabric (see below right). This fabric was developed for sportswear with the aim of wicking sweat from your body into the garment and tray warm air to provide an insulating layer.

How to wash and care for jersey fabric

• These fabrics will shrink when you wash them, sometimes they can even shrink a little after the second wash and this can sometimes be by about 10%.
• Usually it’s fine to wash them at 30 degrees, sometimes 40 degrees and I usually use the second highest spin cycle which is 1200 on my machine.
• You can tumble dry them too but it can make them shrink even more and some fabrics don’t last as long so if you can it’s better to air dry them.
• After the pre-wash try to dry the fabric as flat as possible. I use a big cloths dryer that opens out from Ikea and I’ll fold the fabric so that it is nice and flat. If your fabric gets stretched whilst its drying it can affect the cutting out stage and ultimately lead to a distorted shaped garment.

Why choose jersey fabric for dressmaking?

• It's really quick to sew! The fabric doesn’t fray so even if you are sewing on a regular sewing machine you just need to sew the seam and your done.
• Garments can be easier to fit as the fabric will just stretch around your body
• It’s super comfy to wear!
• It’s easy to wash - you can just put the garments in with the rest of your clothes!

Tips for working with jersey fabric

Types of stretchy jersey fabric and what to do with them

Cotton Jersey Fabric

Cotton jersey fabric is a single knit jersey that tends to feel more stable and hold its shape better than viscose or modal jersey. It still has stretch, but it usually feels a little less slippery and more structured in comparison.

You can find cotton jersey in different weights, but it is most commonly used for classic T shirt styles and everyday basics. It is also a very popular choice for children’s clothes thanks to its softness and durability.

Because cotton jersey is more stable than many other stretch jersey fabrics, it is generally easier to cut and sew. That makes it a lovely option if you are new to sewing with stretch knit fabric and want something a little more forgiving to start with.

Below you will find some recommended sewing patterns and our current cotton jersey fabrics.

Lightweight Viscose Jersey

Lightweight viscose jersey is a soft single knit jersey that feels fluid and quite floppy in your hands. It has beautiful drape and moves easily, which makes it very comfortable to wear.

Because of that natural stretch and movement, this type of stretch jersey fabric works best for more fitted T shirts that stretch around the body, or for styles that are designed to have swish and flow. Patterns like the Closet Core Ebony Tee are a great example of where lightweight viscose jersey really shines.

It is worth noting that viscose jersey can shift and slip a little more when you are cutting and sewing, especially compared to cotton jersey or more stable knit fabrics. For that reason, it is often easier to handle once you have a bit of experience sewing with stretch knit fabric.

Below you will find some recommended sewing patterns and our current lightweight viscose jersey fabrics.

Modal and Tencel Jersey

Modal jersey fabric, sometimes labelled as Tencel jersey, is made from cellulose fibres that are typically derived from beech trees. The fibres are spun and then knitted into a soft single knit jersey, giving you a beautifully fluid stretch jersey fabric that feels lovely against the skin.

Modal and Tencel jerseys are known for their softness. They often feel almost silky to the touch and can have a subtle sheen on the surface. You can find them in different weights, but even the heavier versions tend to remain quite drapey and fluid rather than structured.

Because of that natural drape and movement, modal jersey fabric works particularly well for garments that skim the body. It is ideal for T shirts, wrap tops, draped dresses and relaxed styles where you want softness and flow. It is a very versatile option if you are looking for stretch knit fabric with elegant movement.

Below you will find some recommended sewing patterns and our current modal and Tencel jersey fabrics.

Loopback French Terry

Loopback French terry is a type of stretch knit fabric that has small loops on the reverse side. These loops are created during the knitting process and give the fabric extra thickness and softness, while still keeping it breathable.

Originally designed to help wick moisture away from the body, the looped back also traps a layer of air, which makes French terry warmer than standard jersey fabric. It can be made from different fibres, most commonly cotton or modal, and the fibre content really affects how it behaves.

Modal loopback tends to be softer, drapier and more fluid, making it lovely for relaxed T shirts, cardigans and garments that need movement. Cotton loopback usually has more structure, holds its shape better and often has slightly less stretch, which makes it ideal for looser sweatshirts and casual tops.

It is a versatile option when you want something warmer than jersey but lighter than fleece back sweatshirting, and works beautifully for everyday dressmaking projects.

Below you will find some recommended sewing patterns and our current loopback French terry fabrics.

Fleece-Back Sweatshirting Fabric

Fleece-back sweatshirting sits at the thicker, heavier end of the stretch jersey fabric spectrum and is typically the heaviest type of knit fabric we stock.

What makes this fabric distinctive is the brushed reverse. During manufacturing, the inside is gently brushed and agitated to create that soft, fluffy fleece texture. This gives the fabric extra warmth and makes it incredibly cosy to wear — perfect for comfortable everyday layers.

Our fleece-back sweatshirting fabric is usually made from cotton. Some versions include a small percentage of elastane (spandex/Lycra) for added stretch and recovery, while others are 100% cotton, where the stretch comes purely from the knit construction. The 100% cotton options tend to have a little less stretch, so it’s always worth checking the stretch percentage if your sewing pattern requires a minimum amount.

What Is Fleece-Back Sweatshirting Best Used For?

Because of its weight and structure, fleece-back sweatshirting fabric works best for garments with a looser fit. It’s ideal for:

• Sweatshirts
  
• Jumpers
  
• Hoodies
  
• Relaxed joggers
  
• Cosy loungewear
  

If you’re sewing with sweatshirting fabric, look for patterns designed for medium to heavy-weight stretch knit fabrics to get the best results.

Below you’ll find some recommended sewing patterns and our current fleece-back sweatshirting fabrics to help you get started.

Ribbing Fabric

Ribbing fabric is a very stretchy type of stretch knit fabric that is typically used for cuffs, hem bands and neckbands. It has distinctive vertical lines running through it, which give it excellent stretch and recovery.

Sewing patterns for sweatshirts and jumpers often recommend ribbing, but it is not always essential. You can usually use the same jersey or sweatshirting fabric as the main body, though you may need to adjust the length of the bands slightly to account for less stretch.

I’ve shared a detailed video explaining exactly how to do this if you’d like to explore it further.