Building the Pattern - Book review
Laurens review and fabric suggestions for the new book from Named Patterns
The lovely new book from Named Patterns, Building the Pattern, released in May has such a great selection of different patterns and projects. If offers a modern approach to dressmaking with a capsule wardrobe selection of garments that can be customised to your preference.
As well as that, the book offers expert advice on how to achieve a great fit, with a dedicated section at the start of common fitting adjustments, along with additional techniques introduced project-by-project.
I wanted to round up the designs that are included in the book and match them with suitable fabrics that we have in the shop so you can plan a beautiful selection of makes!
Check out my latest Youtube video where I chat you through fabrics and how to pick the best type of fabric for each project.
There are 7 sets of patterns within the book, each with several variations, so the selection fo garments you can make is huge! I'll summarise each one and link to my top fabric picks for them.
Sorja
This is a loose fit pattern bundle with four variations: an a-line top, a midi-length dress, a faux-wrap dress and faux-wrap skirt with elasticated waist.Fabric suggestions - light weight drapey, non-elastic fabrics are suggesting in the book, specifically viscose, and photographed in the book are samples made from Atelier Brunette fabrics. We have a wide range of those prints (click here to see them all), along with a wide selection of other beautiful viscose prints that would be perfect for these styles.
Eloisa
This collection of patterns are all for jersey fabrics and includes a tunic, sweater, circle dress skirt and a mermaid skirt dress with the common feature of a curved seam that runs over the bust, a relaxed fit in the top parts and a dropped shoulder line.
All of the options can be sewn with a dainty turtle neck or relaxed rib collar neckline. For the sleeves, choose a long ribbed sleeve, an elegant puff sleeve or classic short t0shirt sleeve.
Fabric suggestions - all fabrics should have 30-50% stretch and for the neckband and turtle neck you'll need 40% stretch.
For the tunic and circle skirt dress medium weight jerseys that spring back easily are recommended. Our range of tencel, viscose and modal jerseys would be perfect, as would the textured terry stripe fabrics.
For the sweater, a thicker fleece or terry would be suitable and we have such a wide range of sweatshirting fabric that would be perfect.
For the neckband, our range of ribbing fabrics would be ideal as would our cuffing packs.
Luova
This loose fit bundle features a straight-cut blouse, belted dress and a tunic with side slits on both sides that close with snap fastenings or buttons.
The blouse has a pretty curved hem and the a-line dress side seams have pockets and an elasticated section at the back waist to give shape.
All options have a dropped shoulder like and shoulder yoke.
For the collar, choose between a simple style or a folded collar. For the sleeve the options are a short rigid sleeve, half length t-shirt sleeve or wrist length with a pleat and snap fastening closure.
Fabric suggestions - these styles are really versatile and can be used with a big selection of different fabric types and weights to suit your style preferences.
Generally light to medium weight fabrics are suitable but they might be anything for lighter weight viscose or tencel fabric with lots of drape, to more structured fabric like a linen or shirting fabric.
Heleä
This collection of garments are all designed to be close fitting. There are 3 main variations: a pencil skirt dress, a cute top with peplum and a glamorous mermaid skirt gown.
The skirt and top have front slits, all variations have an invisible zip and you can choose to have sleeves with an elegant curved boat neck or sleeveless with an O-neckline.
Fabric suggestions - for all variations a light or medium weight fabric with a little stretch (15% or less) is best. Fabrics with drape are better for the mermaid skirt and fluted sleeves.
Usually a heavier weight crepe type fabric is great but as they tend to be polyester, we don't have any in stock. We do have some nice cotton pique fabrics that have a little stretch that would be idea though as well as a weightly viscose pique that has great texture and drape.
Varma
This set comprises of high waisted trousers, shorts and a jumpsuit. The trousers have undulating pocket openings and a broad waist band, which can optionally have a tie fastened with a D-ring.
The jumpsuit has more relaxed fit as it doesn't have waist darts. It has a spacious neckline and arm holes and can be fastened with buttons or snap fastenings.
Fabric suggestions - a medium weight trouser fabric with no more than little stretch (no more than 15%) is best and both drapey fabric or more structured fabrics can work depending on your preference.
We have lots of plain stretch cotton twills as well as a few patterned ones that would work. We also have a new stretch linen that would look gorgeous and summery!
Kuulas
These designs offer two style extremes. The bomber features a sporty rib neck, elasticated sleeve ends and a corded hem with flapped patch pockets. Whereas the blazer has a collar with straight sleeves and hem. The waist is gathered with a belt and there are both chest and side pockets.
Fabric suggestions - For the bomber you can opt for a lighterweight blouse type fabric, a medium weight jacket fabric or anything inbetween. I think the bomber would look lovely in one of our plain smooth drape tencel twill fabrics and the blazer in a fabric with more structure. The stretch cottons I suggested above would be good or for a summer version you could use our linen or ramie fabric.
