Lauren’s Round-Up of Coat Sewing Patterns: Tips, Linings & Handmade Wardrobe Inspiration

Grainling Tamarak Jacket

I made this coat a few years ago now and it's been worn a LOT since then! I lengthened the Tamarak pattern and used the hood expansion pack - you can read about it in more detail in this blog post.

TOP TIP - Size up with a thick chunky lining

I used a shearling lining fabric for the whole garment, sleeves included. It's a fairly fitted jacket anyway so I sized up. I can wear a sweater underneath but if I wore a really chunky knitted type jumper it would feel a bit tight.

TOP TIP - Try the 'flat-lining' method

I lined it using a 'flat-lining' method where you baste the lining and the outer fabric WRONG sides facing, within the seam allowance before you start to construct the garment. It means as you sew it the lining is already in place so it's a bit like using a double sided fabric!

Closet Core Clare Coat

The Clare Coat was one of our Sewing Society kits a few years ago and prior to that I also made another one. Both versions I'm made have had a slippery viscose lining throughout the bodice and the sleeve.

TOP TIP - Add some flat piping between the facing and lining for a flash of fancy on the inside

To make the insides more special and fancy I've added a flat piping between the facing and the lining using self-made bias strips that get pressed in half, wrong sides facing and sewn into the seem.

The Clare Coat pattern is now only available as a pdf from the Closet Core website. My top tips video is also available in this link for more details on how I stitched the flat piping into place.

Grainline Yates Coat

This was also a Sewing Society Kit and similarly to the Clare, we added some flat piping in between the facing and the main lining, which again was a slippery viscose lining throughout.

TOP TIP - make a hanging tab with some pretty cotton lawn. You could also reinforce it with some interfacing to make it stronger.

We also added a hanging tab using the same cotton lawn that was used for the flat piping, this is a great way to still have a hanging tab without the bulk.

Grainline Cascade Duffle Coat

For this project I combined two fabrics for the lining. The bodice and hood are a Liberty Tana Lawn and the sleeves are a silk habotai, which does the same job as a slippery viscose type fabric. It means you can have a fancy lining but still get your arm in and out with ease.

TOP TIP - Combine a fancier fabric like a cotton lawn for the bodice with a slippery type lining for the sleeve so that you can still get your arm in and out with ease.

Hey June Handmade Narva Coat

Another example of a coat that has a full slippery viscose lining fabric. This one was a dead stock ex designer fabric so has a pretty flower pattern on it. Sourcing fancier lining fabrics like these is tricky - so if you ever see them and you love making coats it's worth getting some for your stash!

The Narva Coat pattern is only available as a pdf from the Hey June Handmade website website. My top tips video is also available in this link.

Sew Over It Cocoon Coat

For this fluffy delight of a coat I used some prized Liberty silk that I had in my stash for YEARS. I felt like I wouldn't really wear a garment in that print but the fabric was so beautiful and it makes an amazing lining! I used a silk habotai for the sleeves as it didn't seem right to hide the beautiful print in the sleeve!

TOP TIP - For ultimate luxury use a silk satin lining - it will make such a special coat that you will treasure FOREVER!

The Cocoon Coat pattern is available as a pdf from the Sew Over It website.

Paper Cut Kids Nova Coat

My daughter Sophia loved this fluffy animal print fabric when it came into the shop so I offered to make her a snuggly coat in it. My mistake was asking her what lining she wanted! She picked this colourful Liberty Tana Lawn for the bodice and I used a slippery viscose fabric for the sleeves - so it really is party on the inside and out!

Wardrobe By Me Amelia Bomber Jacket

This gorgeous bomber jacket has been much worn over the summer since it featured in one of our Sewing Society kits. We lined it fully with a viscose twill fabric, which is a little bit slippery - just not as slippery and shiney as a more traditional type of coat lining. As it was a warmer weather garment I knew I'd be more likely to wear tops underneath rather than thicker jumpers or cardigans so it still works well.

TOP TIP - consider what type of garment you will wear under your coat as this will help guide your lining choice. If its a light weight jacket that you'd wear with bare arms or a lighter layer then a softer breathable fabric like a cotton lawn or viscose twill will be ok. If its a thicker jumper or knitted type garment then having a slippery lining will mean you can get the coat on and off more easily.

The Ameila Bomber pattern is only available as a pdf from the Wardrobe By Me Website. My top tips video is also available in this link.

Closet Core Kelly Anorak

This project really was a labour of love but one I think was worth it! For this anorak I used a shower resistant waxed cotton and decided to flat line it with some quilted Thinsulate, which is a very warm technical fabric. I quilted it myself, you can read more about the process in this link Part one, and this link part two.

The garment has a neat fit so adding in a quilted or padded lining means its better to size up. I only put it in the hood and bodice as I felt it would be too much in the sleeves as well. Finishing off the seam allowances with this extra bulk was a challenge, my over locker just about coped with most of it but at the neckline I ended up covering them up by handsewing on a pretty woven ribbon which did the trick!

TOP TIP - To make a coat EXTRA warm, use a technical fabric like Thinsulate, which will help keep the heat in.

We also made a more transitional/spring version of the Kelly as a Sewing Society kit using a cotton twill. For these versions, only the hood was lined and this was purely for aesthetic purposes, rather than particularly serving a function. It's a great way to add fun details to your project and make it even more unique!

TOP TIP - Add lining in at key parts just for fun! Whether is a hood lining, pocket lining or just finishing off a hem seam allowance with some bias tape in a pretty fabric - it's a lovely way to make your garment even more personal and special!

Grainline Thayer Jacket

This version of the Thayer that was also a Sewing Society kit was lined with a cotton twill checked fabric throughout - bodice and sleeves.

It works in the sleeves if you are making this jacket to wear as a lighter layer over thinner tops and blouses and looks really nice if you roll the cuffs back a bit to expose the lining.

TOP TIP - If you want to style the coat with the sleeve cuffs turned up, add a fancier lining or even make a facing in the lining so that the exposed section is the fancy fabric, while the rest of the sleeve is a more traditional slippery lining fabric.

Chalk and Notch Joy Jacket

This is another example of using a fun patterned lining for a lighter weight jacket. We featured this version in a Sewing Society kit where the outer is a smooth drape Tencel Twill fabric and the lining is a regular, plain weave patterned visocse. It's intended for wearing in the spring/summer, likely with bear arms or a light top or blouse so it feels nice against your skin.

Papercut Waver Jacket

For this Waver Jacket, I really wanted to use a Liberty Tana Lawn that I loved but knew I'd be unlikely to wear as a full garment on its own.

I lined the whole coat, sleeves and all, with the Lawn. In hindsight I probably should have used a plain or slippery type lining in the sleeves but as the fit of this garment is looser throughout, including the sleeves I got away with it and can still wear it with thicker layers underneath - it just sticks a bit more when I take me arm in and out.

I hope you have found all these makes useful and inspiring - my final TOP TIP is give it a go! Once you start making beautiful coats and jackets you'll never want to buy a ready made one again!